‘Tis time to depart this remarkable villa in Sicily and say goodbye to the seven others who shared this experience with me in the steep town of Noto in southeastern Sicily.

We were brought together by Victoria Granof who is deep in the process of creating a cookbook on Sicilian pastries. I was honored to have seen her team cook and bake. Photograph and prop. Research and explore. Write and edit. Believe me when I tell you, you will be adding this Cookbook (not yet named) to your Christmas list next year.

Traveling clockwise around the table starting at the bottom left with me are the photographer Louise and Sophie, photographer assistant. They flew in from London to be part of the cookbook team. Just lovely and hilariously funny in that understated British way. I learned so much about the art of book photography from watching them work together.

That exotic woman at the head of the table — and at the right in the picture above — is Monica, owner of the now shuttered Nickel Diner on Skid Row LA. I think of her as the Victoria whisperer. Back home, she is currently turning her attention to feeding the unhoused in her city.

Victoria is to her right. She had second thoughts about having that latumme she’d read so much about. Not sure I can blame her for passing on a sack of tuna sperm. And I don’t even want to think about how you cook it (or if you even cook it at all!!) or what you’d serve it with.

Finalmente: Luka and Ester. Goodness – I don’t even know where to start with this wonderful Italian couple. He is a marketing and art design guru and Ester is an art director and food stylist. They are, quite simply, amazing. Both proficient in several languages. They have lived in more countries than I can name: Singapore, Melbourne, Paris. E più.

Lots of memories. More to come, I’m sure of that.

Sunday in Noto. For reasons I cannot even articulate, I was having difficulty finding somewhere to go to church. I KNOW!!! For crying out loud – how hard can it be to find a Catholic mass in Italy!?

I did some recognizance Saturday night and found the Chiesa del Santissimo Crocifisso with a sign indicating Sunday mass was at 8:30am.

Come Sunday, I walked through the quiet strada and sat in the little piazza right across the street from a verrry sealed up chiesa. Every bench was filled with chattering old men (a common sight in these Italian towns).

After going back and forth between the church and the villa – the doors to the church opened and the Mass started.

When I returned, the kitchen was buzzing with photo shoots – and lunch cooking. You can bet that living with Food People is a guarantee of some fabulous moments of “let’s pore through the kitchen and the pantry and make something for lunch!”

Buon Cibo. Good Eats!

It was a full day of cooking, shooting, and great conversation. What an honor to be part of it.

This is my second visit to Sicily. The first time, with the best of friends: Steve and Linda. Many years ago, we travelled to name places like Taormina, Catania, Palermo. It was a good introduction to this remarkable culture I am inadequate to describe.

This visit is at the invitation of the incredible Food Diva Victoria Granof. Author of many cookbooks such as The Ultimate College Cookbook and Chickpeas. She also wrote a book of Sicilian Pastries: Sweet Sicily.

Which brings us to this moment – in the Sicilian town of Noto, where Victoria and her team of photographers, assistants, and friends have gathered to make a brand new, contemporary cookbook of Sicilian pastries.

This is a trip that took many months of planning – and the renting of three different villas. The “middle” one in Noto has six bedrooms for eight people: Italian, British, Los Angelena, and a couple of New Yorkers (including me).

I had a month in Italy planned, which so happened to land at the same time as Victoria’s trip to Sicily to bake and photograph her pastries. I am filled with gratitude that she invited me to join her troupe for several days and nights.

We are eating and drinking together. And exploring this part of the island.

A Visit to the Baroque Town of Modica

Where we visited a flour (yes flour not flower) shop which milled grain, sold filberts, and typical Modica-style pastas like Busiata. We strolled. Ate ricotta. Bought chocolate. And tried Gelo di Limone.

Pasta

Grateful. Gratitudine. Gratitude.

Were it not for this level of friendship, I would not likely have ever visited a town like Modica by myself.

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Here I find myself (as in Istanbul) surrounded by new experiences that make me utter “I’ve never blanked anything like this in my life!”

Sicily: a feast for all the senses. I’ve just arrived and am still processing what is and will be in this exotic Italian, but not really Italian, country.

When I left Rome this morning, I was talking with the woman who owns the apartment in Monti where I rent “my” room. We were commiserating about the heavy thunderstorm that had drenched la bella città that morning. “Brutissimo!”‘ we agreed. “Will it rain like this in Sicily?” I asked.

“It’s Africa!” said she. As if no more need be said.

I am in the land of pistachios, mint and dried grapes.

I cannot wait.