This time of year in Rome, one of the few veg (contorno) choices on the menu is cicoria. It is ofttimes described as chicory, which is true. But it’s not quite like the bitter green we eat in the USA. Well, it is. And it’s not.

The Roman preparation is simple, and delicious!! It has clearly been sautéed in olive oil with some red pepper flakes and sometimes garlic. And served room temp.

For the longest time while living here I was obsessed with finding out exactly what vegetable it was. I finally landed on dandelion greens. Not exactly like the ones we buy in the States – the ones here are more tender. Maybe young. Not sure.

And then one afternoon, as I stalked (yep – went there) the Date Lady at the Campo de’ Fiori market – waiting for my beloved nature’s candy to come in – I thought to ask “what are those greens you use to make cicoria.”

Of course, I had to buy myself a bag of this cicorietta. That afternoon as I tromped back to my appartamento in Monti – I happened by the Taverna Romana – and saw that night’s offerings on the chalkboard. At the top: Spaghetti con Cicoria e Pecorino.

Another obsession was born! I needed to make that dish. I had my greens. Now I had to have the rest of the ingredients needed to create this pasta meal at home.

Even though I walked by it every day, I somehow missed the Alimentari shop on my street, the Via del Boschetto. They might as well have called the store “everything Janet needs to cook tonight.” (Which makes total sense: alimentari means FOOD in Italian).

Anyway, they sold me precisely the amount I wanted. A small bottle of Extra Virgin, a tiny chunk of pecorino, spaghetti, a dinky pouch of peperoncini.

Even this:

TWO, yes 2! Anchovy Fillets

Who sells just two anchovy fillets? How many grotty opened cans of anchovies – with their congealed fat – lost in the nether world at the back of your frig – have you flipping tossed!!??

Not gonna lie!!

IT WAS DELISH!!!

Italy awaits and I am venturing out of la bella città di Roma for the Lake District. A little village described as “if you want to do nothing, go there.”

Oh boy!

I am very excited to try this dish called pizzocchere – though it kinda sounds pizza-like – it is not. It is buckwheat pasta with melted cheese, potatoes and greens.

Yum!

I will be sure to report in.  More foods to explore, paths to walk, people to meet. More anon!